By Marcellas Reynolds ·December 28, 2020December 23, 2020
All this month, Essence.com will present TWENTY, THE REMIX—three digital exhibits I curated celebrating excellence in the worlds of acting, art, and fashion. Continuing with a theme I love, exalting Black greatness while telling our stories, these galleries showcase those who pave the way for the next generations.
In the 1950s, Grammy and Tony award-winning actor, singer, and activist Harry Belafonte introduced American audiences to calypso. Belafonte is the first solo artist in history to have a million-selling album. A friend and contemporary of Sidney Poitier, Belafonte made his screen debut in Bright Road with co-star Dorothy Dandridge.
In Supreme Models, I posed the theory that the fashion industry is often the precursor to social change. If that’s true, then no one is more important than the fashion designer. In TWENTY DESIGNERS YOU SHOULD KNOW, I spotlight several trailblazing African-American designers who deserve all the laurels. In a multi-billion dollar industry dominated by White males, we are there, fighting the battle for diversity and inclusion while creating something beautiful.
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I couldn’t be more thrilled to contribute these lists of my favorite things to a magazine as historic as ESSENCE. As a child, I read my mother’s ESSENCE magazines from cover to cover, breathing in the beauty and wonder of the Black experience. I found inspiration in the pages of ESSENCE. I hope these galleries do that for a new generation of readers.
01Alexander-John Ballard– One of the most influential designers within the art and sneaker communities
– A fave of Jay Z, Alexander-John has collaborated with Puma, New Balance, and Reebok 
02Ann Lowe– Born in 1898, Lowe is the first noted African American fashion designer
– In the 1940s and 50s, she was THE designer for New York’s high society
– Designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding gown 
03Carly Cushnie– Carly Cushnie established her luxury women’s ready-to-wear and bridal brand in 2008
– Fans of the brand include Michelle Obama, Beyoncé, Lupita Nyong’o, and Jennifer Lopez 
04C1V1L– Minority-owned jewelry and diamond company founded by Blakely Thorton
– Supermodel Slick Woods is a shareholder and the face of the brand
– A unisex jewelry line of sleek urban-inspired jewelry, their signature lariat-style necklace, is named after Woods’ son, Saphir 
05Christopher John Rogers– The 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner launched his brand in 2016
– His glamorous designs have garnered fans like Lady Gaga, Rihanna, and Tracee Ellis Ross 
06Dapper Dan– Known for introducing hip-hop stars like Salt-N-Pepa, LL Cool J, and Jay-Z to high-fashion
– Partnered with Gucci in 2017 for a menswear line
– Opened Dapper Dan of Harlem, Harlem’s first luxury fashion atelier on Lenox Avenue in partnership with Gucci 
07Jerome LaMaar– Began his career as the designer and junior creative director of Baby Phat
– Currently designs 5:31 a luxury streetwear collection
– Worked closely with Beyonce during the creation and launch of her Ivy Park/Adidas partnership 
08Joe Casely-Hayford OBE– A Brit icon, in 2007 Casely-Hayford was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire for services to the fashion industry
– Graduated from London’s prestigious Saint Martin’s School of Art
– Fans of the prolific menswear designer include The Clash, Benedict Cumberbatch, Michael Fassbender, and U2 
09Kerby Jean-Raymond Whitewall 
10LaQuan Smith– Since his formal debut in 2013, Smith has gained celebrity fans, including Beyonce, Lady Gaga, and Rihanna
– In 2018 debuted a collaboration with online retailer ASOS 
11LemLem– Supermodel Liya Kebede started the brand to elevate artisanship and to expand production and jobs across Africa
– The collection of women’s, men’s, children’s clothing, and home goods are made entirely in Africa
12Ozwald Boateng– Designs menswear with a twist of classic Savile Row technique and vibrant color
– Youngest tailor ever to open a store on London’s Savile Row
– In 2006, named an “Officer of the Order of the British Empire” by the Queen 
13Patrick Kelly– The first American designer accepted into Paris’ Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-porter
– Known for slinky, body-conscious dresses adorned with colorful buttons 
14Patrick Robinson– Designed for iconic brands like Giorgio Armani, Anne Klein, Perry Ellis, Paco Rabanne
– Current designer of Pashko, a sustainable RTW brand 
15Stephen Burrows– His collection was the finale at the legendary The Battle of Versailles
– The first African-American designer to receive a Coty Award
– The first African-American designer to launch a fragrance 
16Stella Jean– The daughter of a Haitian mother and Italian father, Jean began her career as a model
– Known for her vivid prints and tailoring
– A protege of famed designer Giorgio Armani, she showed her S/S 2014 collection in the Armani/Teatro space during Milano Moda Donna 
17Telfar Clemens– In 2017, Clemens won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund
– His signature bag is known as the Bushwick Birkin
– Won the 2020 American Accessories Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards 
18Tracy Reese– Board member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America
– Launched her label in New York in 1998
– Forever FLOTUS Michelle Obama wore a custom-made Tracy Reese dress for her 2012 DNC Convention speech 
19Willi Smith– The creator of modern streetwear
– Founded WilliWear in 1976
– Before his death in 1987, WilliWear grossed an estimated $25,000,000 a year 
20Gordon HendersonFashion designer Gordon Henderson attends Bergdorf Goodman and Chanel’s “Off the Street” Runway Show and Gala to Benefit the Citizen’s Committee for Children of New York on September 12, 1991 at Industria Superstudio in New York City. 
TOPICS: African-American designers black designer black designers Black Fashion Designers black male designer
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